Nepal Day 13

This morning we got a 0530 am wake up call and then made our way to the airport for our light aircraft flight along the Himilaya Range towards Everest.

We took off around 0730hrs and cleared the polution layer above Kathmandu quickly. We then had a brilliant flight along the range level with the mountains, but at a safe distance.

We were allowed to go up to the cockpit for an even better view of the mountains and then Everest laid out before us. It truely was a memorable sight.

We returned for a good breakfast and then went by taxi to the orphanage and met with the lady who runs the establishment on a daily basis. She gave us a tour of the rudimentary facilities, but it was clear that she and her volunteer staff cared deeply for those in thier care. George acted as official photographer and got some really nice shots.

We then went back to her office and sorted through the clothes and shoes we had brought. Then a couple of the younger children came in for a fitting of some new shoes - it was a really special moment.

In the afternoon we went out of the city to visit medieval city called Bhaktapur. This is a maze of narrow streets with intricately carved wooden panels on all the windows and doors. The workmanship was truely amazing.

In one of the several squares is the Golden Gate - actually brass with gold leaf. Either way it was very impressive and beautifully contructed.

Tonight is our last meal, before we head home early in the morning for the long flight via Delhi back to London. It has been a great, memorable trip and one that we have all, as a group, enjoyed tremendously.

Nepal Day 12

Today was a travel day back to Kathmandu. This meant retracing our route back along the highways we had used earlier in our trip.

This journey lasted about six and a half hours - and this was the short route! We did stop for some masala tea and some snacks, but the day was really all about eating up the miles.

We got back in time for a stroll into town and some sampling of some Momo's and a hot rum and honey toddy!

Tomorrow first off, I'm taking a flight to view Everest and then it's back down to earth to visit a children's orpanage / care home for children whose parents are in prison or have abandoned them.

Nepal Day 11

This morning we awoke to thick mist and a heavy dew, but this soon cleared as the sun roseand burnt off the moisture. We headed by jeep and small truck out to the river some 10 minutes away. Upon arrival we waited for a short time for the canoes. These were local hollowed out tree trunks and were flat bottomed, so not that stable. Each canoe took 8, plus a guide and then we were off floating with the current down stream.

The bird life was prolific. There were dozens of Martins, which were burrowing in the soft river banks and several kingfishers, (Common, Stork -Billed, White Throated) Black Hooded Oriole, Indian Pond Heron and loads of Wagtails. We also saw several crocodiles and small monkeys.

All too soon the trip was over and we got off to have a short walk to the elephant breeding centre. We got there just in time to see the elephants making their way out into the jungle for the day, including twin calves - a rare event in elephant terms.

From there we had to cross back over the river by another canoe to pick up the transport back to the lodge for lunch. When we got back we were lucky to see four Oriental Pied Hornbills feeding on the fruiting trees in the garden.

After lunch we had a stroll into the local village to do some more shopping! We had a lovely encounter with a local shop owning family. A mother and very young child were sitting outside their shop. The child, aged around 1year, was sitting in the middle of the table and waving and smiling at us. I took a few pictures and then offered to pring one out for the mother to keep. I did this with a mini printer and one minute later the mother had her picture and was clearlt thrilled. As I packed up, the old lady of the house came out and asked for her picture to be done. She smoothed back her hair and posed regally and then after the picture was produced examined it with great interest, giving me the thumbs up sign!

Our afternoon period was taken up with an elephant ride into the forest. Riding elephants must be the most uncomfortable means of transport - after camels - known to man. With four passengers each we headed off.

We were lucky that in a short time we found a mother and calf One Horned Indian Rhino, feeding. We stayed a short time and then headed off again, swaying and lurching as we went. We saw a few deer, Barking and Spotted, and a few more birds, before returning to the loading platform for the unceromonious off-loading!

Following a late coffee we enjoyed a slide show given by Fule, on the local forna. It was nearing the end of this, that I discovered I had collected a leech on my travels which was making a bloody mess of my ankle, sock and boot! A quick removal and dispatching and then it was time for dinner!!!

Tomorrow we have a little time for an early morning bird watching, prior to returning to Kathmandu.

Nepal Day 10

This morning we finally left Pokhara and started a four and a half hour journey by road to Chitwan. We retraced our route for a couple of hours before turning off on the road to Chitwan.

This route was heavy with lorry and bus traffic as it is the only route through the mountains from Pokhara to the Terai plains boarding India. The road climbed for a while and then started to descend gradually, all the time following the river Trisuli.

We finally dropped out of the mountains and onto the plains. Almost at once the houses changed as did the dress of the local people - they even looked slightly different. This is the home lands of the Tharu, Rajbamsi and Dhimal people of Indian descent.

As the government had decided recently to close all the lodges inside Chitwan National Park, due to their leases running out, we were forced to stay just outside the park at Sauraha, in the Royal Park Hotel.



This is a typical safari lodge style hotel, with pleasant tree shaded gardens and nicely spaced double storey accomodation chalets. We arrived and were warmly greeted and then the programme of the next day or so was outlined.

After a good lunch we ventured out by local ox carts to explore the local Tharu villages. Our guide was a very nice local chap called Fule. He was a keen birder and we were soon spotting several species of birds, such as Blue Tailed Bee Eaters, Indian Roller, Rufous Tree Pie and stone chats.

We stopped and explored a village by foot, going into the traditional mud and thatch houses, which help keep the houses cool in the scorching summer heat. After some pleasnt interaction with the locals we mounted up again and made our way back towards our hotel. As we did the sun dropped and we were greeted with several elephants and mahouts making their way home after taking out the tourists in the park.

In the evening we treated to a local dancing / drumming show put on by the locals before an excellent evening meal.

Tomorrow we head into the park by canoe and elelphant.

Nepal Day 9

Today is a rest day in Pokhara with an optional visit arranged to a Tibetan monestry for a brief visit and also a local Tibetan carpet weaving centre. This is part of a refugee camp which the Nepalise government has allowed on its soil.

The monestry was interesting and Deepen examined the difference between the various forms of Buddhism. We also took in a local waterfall, not very impressive at this time of year due to low water, but spectacular after the monsoon, if the pictures are anything to go by.

We retuned to town for some chill time, taking in some lunch in a garden restuarant by the lake. A lovely spot, with excellent stawberry lasse and pizzas! As we finished two paragliders landed in front of the garden after descending from the near by mountain!

We spent some more time browsing the many local shops, before returning for a well earned rum at at hotel - courtesy of our 'emergency' Gurkha rum purchased in Gorka.

Tomorrow we head for the final phase of our trip - Chitwan National Park!

Nepal Day 8

With some sore heads we quickly had breakfast and broke camp. This was the last days trek, actaually only a half day, where we would meet up with the bus and return to Pokhara.



The trek took us through some lovely local villages and had some great views over the mainly farming land. We pased rice terraces and saw several buffalo plough teams working.



It was only couple of hours or so before we evenually completed our walk and met up with Rajeev, our driver. We were soon on our way back to Pokhara and within an hour enjoying a hot shower at our hotel.

For lunch we went to the treking companies HQ where our usual camp table and stools were arranged in the garden. We had lunch and then met and thanked all the staff, sherpas, cook and helpers and presented them their tips. They presented us all with a silk scarf. Then after several group pictures it was time to shake everyones hand and go our seperate ways. It was sad to part especially as they had really looked after us well and had become good friends.



We then had some well earned leisure time, strolling around town and catching up on the blog, before getting a curry for dinner.

Nepal Day 7

We were awoken at 0600 hrs and dressed quickly to try and keep what little warmth we had from our sleeping bags escaping.

We emerged into the cold, damp, dark morning and stumbled up onto a flat viewing area. The dawn was just breaking and the mountains were emerging from the gloom. As we waited for the sun to rise, the boys brought round piping hot water for tea and coffee.

As we all stood there trying to take in the ever changing light and wonderous mountain views there was a respectful silence, as words were not really necessary. It was a sight to behold and one that will live in our memories for a very long time.

The usual routine kicked in and then we were off again, this time taking a steep stepped path straight up from the camp site to a temple and view point a hard two hour climb away.We were now at 2500 m, the highest point of our trek. However we were rewarded with tremendous sweeping vista of the Annapurna range, taking in seven peaks. Again because the weather was clear the panorama was breath taking.

After an hours stop, taking in all we could from the view and small temple, we descended for about an hour and half down steep, near vertical steps to arrive for lunch at a grassy clearing.

After yet another excellent lunch we all had a lay down and had to be awoken by the guides with the now infamous phrase, "jum jum", meaning lets go!

We descended for about another hour and half to our final camp site at Badauri. Here we were told the local villagers wanted to put on a small show, in return for a small donation to their community projects.

Therefore after dinner,(again up to its usual standard) we settled down for the show. To help the evening go with a swing, the staff had generously plied us with a hot fruit and rum punch throughout dinner. This was continued throughout the show as the large tea kettle did the rounds as we (tried) to perch on our camp stools!

The show was a magical event, as the locals put on a display of both male and female dancing and local song. What made it more appealing was the fact that these were not professionals, but local rural people and they were embarrased by the applause and photographic interest show in them.

Of course the lads were not going to be left out and they joined in enthusiastically - aided by the 'tea' from the never emptying pot! Then it was our turn to join in the fun as the crew pulled us up to mix with them and the local people. It turned out to be tremendous fun and again another lasting memory - especially the 'Hokey Kokey', which made the locals shriek with laughter.

The evening was rounded off with some singing by the lads, lead by Shiva, who had a great voice, accompanied by Ram on the drum. Of course we had to reply, so we sang a Christmas carol!

We retired to bed, much the worse for the now dreaded 'black tea', and was grateful for the knowledge that the following days trek was only a half day!

Nepal Day 6

After a comfortable night at Bhumdi we were awoken with a hot cup of tea by the boys, very welcome when it was quite cold. Shortly afterwards they returned with two bowls and some hot water for our morning wash. Then it was our turn to do some work, by packing up our trek bags, which were swiftly loaded onto baskets by the sherpas and then taken away.

The breakfast gong was sounded and we then had an open air breakfast of porridge, fried eggs on toast and another hot drink. Whilst we munched away the crew packed up the tents and again these were loaded and sent on their way.

We then had a few minutes before we got our personal kit ready and then we set of about 0830 hrs. Again, this was the pattern for the remaining mornings.

The days trek took us through and over several wooded hills on narrow tracks. Occasionally the trees would part and reveal the snow covered mountain range in the distance. These were part of the Annapurna Range and were peaks such as the Fish Tail (6993m) and Annapurna South (7219m). Luckily the weather was clear and fresh and the mountains were clearly visible.

We continued on our trek and stopped for lunch on a grassy clearing above a valley. Again Laxmi our cook produced another great meal.

We then descended into the next valley and began a climb up the next mountain on a forest road. By now the clouds had rolled in and the views had disappeared. We continued on this road for another hour and half before reaching our next camp site at Panchase Bhanjyang - we were now at 2100 m.

The cloud and mist were making the temperature plummit, so everyone was being quick with their wash and rushing for the comparative warmth of the mess tent. The camp was situated on a mountain saddle and as such had views both East and West. Deepen, our guide, promised we would have a good sunrise the following morning, when the cloud lifted.

Again we had a magnificent meal, this time soup, home made pizza and veg spring rolls. Don't ask me how Laxmi managed to produce such a meal in the basic cooking conditions, but everyone agreed it was probably the best pizza we had ever eaten!

The temperature fell further that night and there was heavy dew. As much as this made sleeping uncomfortable, it was a hidden blessing, as unknown to us it meant the clouds were gone and the mountains were revealing themselves.
This was to prove magical when were were awoken at dawn the following morning!!!