Nepal Day 13

This morning we got a 0530 am wake up call and then made our way to the airport for our light aircraft flight along the Himilaya Range towards Everest.

We took off around 0730hrs and cleared the polution layer above Kathmandu quickly. We then had a brilliant flight along the range level with the mountains, but at a safe distance.

We were allowed to go up to the cockpit for an even better view of the mountains and then Everest laid out before us. It truely was a memorable sight.

We returned for a good breakfast and then went by taxi to the orphanage and met with the lady who runs the establishment on a daily basis. She gave us a tour of the rudimentary facilities, but it was clear that she and her volunteer staff cared deeply for those in thier care. George acted as official photographer and got some really nice shots.

We then went back to her office and sorted through the clothes and shoes we had brought. Then a couple of the younger children came in for a fitting of some new shoes - it was a really special moment.

In the afternoon we went out of the city to visit medieval city called Bhaktapur. This is a maze of narrow streets with intricately carved wooden panels on all the windows and doors. The workmanship was truely amazing.

In one of the several squares is the Golden Gate - actually brass with gold leaf. Either way it was very impressive and beautifully contructed.

Tonight is our last meal, before we head home early in the morning for the long flight via Delhi back to London. It has been a great, memorable trip and one that we have all, as a group, enjoyed tremendously.

Nepal Day 12

Today was a travel day back to Kathmandu. This meant retracing our route back along the highways we had used earlier in our trip.

This journey lasted about six and a half hours - and this was the short route! We did stop for some masala tea and some snacks, but the day was really all about eating up the miles.

We got back in time for a stroll into town and some sampling of some Momo's and a hot rum and honey toddy!

Tomorrow first off, I'm taking a flight to view Everest and then it's back down to earth to visit a children's orpanage / care home for children whose parents are in prison or have abandoned them.

Nepal Day 11

This morning we awoke to thick mist and a heavy dew, but this soon cleared as the sun roseand burnt off the moisture. We headed by jeep and small truck out to the river some 10 minutes away. Upon arrival we waited for a short time for the canoes. These were local hollowed out tree trunks and were flat bottomed, so not that stable. Each canoe took 8, plus a guide and then we were off floating with the current down stream.

The bird life was prolific. There were dozens of Martins, which were burrowing in the soft river banks and several kingfishers, (Common, Stork -Billed, White Throated) Black Hooded Oriole, Indian Pond Heron and loads of Wagtails. We also saw several crocodiles and small monkeys.

All too soon the trip was over and we got off to have a short walk to the elephant breeding centre. We got there just in time to see the elephants making their way out into the jungle for the day, including twin calves - a rare event in elephant terms.

From there we had to cross back over the river by another canoe to pick up the transport back to the lodge for lunch. When we got back we were lucky to see four Oriental Pied Hornbills feeding on the fruiting trees in the garden.

After lunch we had a stroll into the local village to do some more shopping! We had a lovely encounter with a local shop owning family. A mother and very young child were sitting outside their shop. The child, aged around 1year, was sitting in the middle of the table and waving and smiling at us. I took a few pictures and then offered to pring one out for the mother to keep. I did this with a mini printer and one minute later the mother had her picture and was clearlt thrilled. As I packed up, the old lady of the house came out and asked for her picture to be done. She smoothed back her hair and posed regally and then after the picture was produced examined it with great interest, giving me the thumbs up sign!

Our afternoon period was taken up with an elephant ride into the forest. Riding elephants must be the most uncomfortable means of transport - after camels - known to man. With four passengers each we headed off.

We were lucky that in a short time we found a mother and calf One Horned Indian Rhino, feeding. We stayed a short time and then headed off again, swaying and lurching as we went. We saw a few deer, Barking and Spotted, and a few more birds, before returning to the loading platform for the unceromonious off-loading!

Following a late coffee we enjoyed a slide show given by Fule, on the local forna. It was nearing the end of this, that I discovered I had collected a leech on my travels which was making a bloody mess of my ankle, sock and boot! A quick removal and dispatching and then it was time for dinner!!!

Tomorrow we have a little time for an early morning bird watching, prior to returning to Kathmandu.

Nepal Day 10

This morning we finally left Pokhara and started a four and a half hour journey by road to Chitwan. We retraced our route for a couple of hours before turning off on the road to Chitwan.

This route was heavy with lorry and bus traffic as it is the only route through the mountains from Pokhara to the Terai plains boarding India. The road climbed for a while and then started to descend gradually, all the time following the river Trisuli.

We finally dropped out of the mountains and onto the plains. Almost at once the houses changed as did the dress of the local people - they even looked slightly different. This is the home lands of the Tharu, Rajbamsi and Dhimal people of Indian descent.

As the government had decided recently to close all the lodges inside Chitwan National Park, due to their leases running out, we were forced to stay just outside the park at Sauraha, in the Royal Park Hotel.



This is a typical safari lodge style hotel, with pleasant tree shaded gardens and nicely spaced double storey accomodation chalets. We arrived and were warmly greeted and then the programme of the next day or so was outlined.

After a good lunch we ventured out by local ox carts to explore the local Tharu villages. Our guide was a very nice local chap called Fule. He was a keen birder and we were soon spotting several species of birds, such as Blue Tailed Bee Eaters, Indian Roller, Rufous Tree Pie and stone chats.

We stopped and explored a village by foot, going into the traditional mud and thatch houses, which help keep the houses cool in the scorching summer heat. After some pleasnt interaction with the locals we mounted up again and made our way back towards our hotel. As we did the sun dropped and we were greeted with several elephants and mahouts making their way home after taking out the tourists in the park.

In the evening we treated to a local dancing / drumming show put on by the locals before an excellent evening meal.

Tomorrow we head into the park by canoe and elelphant.

Nepal Day 9

Today is a rest day in Pokhara with an optional visit arranged to a Tibetan monestry for a brief visit and also a local Tibetan carpet weaving centre. This is part of a refugee camp which the Nepalise government has allowed on its soil.

The monestry was interesting and Deepen examined the difference between the various forms of Buddhism. We also took in a local waterfall, not very impressive at this time of year due to low water, but spectacular after the monsoon, if the pictures are anything to go by.

We retuned to town for some chill time, taking in some lunch in a garden restuarant by the lake. A lovely spot, with excellent stawberry lasse and pizzas! As we finished two paragliders landed in front of the garden after descending from the near by mountain!

We spent some more time browsing the many local shops, before returning for a well earned rum at at hotel - courtesy of our 'emergency' Gurkha rum purchased in Gorka.

Tomorrow we head for the final phase of our trip - Chitwan National Park!

Nepal Day 8

With some sore heads we quickly had breakfast and broke camp. This was the last days trek, actaually only a half day, where we would meet up with the bus and return to Pokhara.



The trek took us through some lovely local villages and had some great views over the mainly farming land. We pased rice terraces and saw several buffalo plough teams working.



It was only couple of hours or so before we evenually completed our walk and met up with Rajeev, our driver. We were soon on our way back to Pokhara and within an hour enjoying a hot shower at our hotel.

For lunch we went to the treking companies HQ where our usual camp table and stools were arranged in the garden. We had lunch and then met and thanked all the staff, sherpas, cook and helpers and presented them their tips. They presented us all with a silk scarf. Then after several group pictures it was time to shake everyones hand and go our seperate ways. It was sad to part especially as they had really looked after us well and had become good friends.



We then had some well earned leisure time, strolling around town and catching up on the blog, before getting a curry for dinner.

Nepal Day 7

We were awoken at 0600 hrs and dressed quickly to try and keep what little warmth we had from our sleeping bags escaping.

We emerged into the cold, damp, dark morning and stumbled up onto a flat viewing area. The dawn was just breaking and the mountains were emerging from the gloom. As we waited for the sun to rise, the boys brought round piping hot water for tea and coffee.

As we all stood there trying to take in the ever changing light and wonderous mountain views there was a respectful silence, as words were not really necessary. It was a sight to behold and one that will live in our memories for a very long time.

The usual routine kicked in and then we were off again, this time taking a steep stepped path straight up from the camp site to a temple and view point a hard two hour climb away.We were now at 2500 m, the highest point of our trek. However we were rewarded with tremendous sweeping vista of the Annapurna range, taking in seven peaks. Again because the weather was clear the panorama was breath taking.

After an hours stop, taking in all we could from the view and small temple, we descended for about an hour and half down steep, near vertical steps to arrive for lunch at a grassy clearing.

After yet another excellent lunch we all had a lay down and had to be awoken by the guides with the now infamous phrase, "jum jum", meaning lets go!

We descended for about another hour and half to our final camp site at Badauri. Here we were told the local villagers wanted to put on a small show, in return for a small donation to their community projects.

Therefore after dinner,(again up to its usual standard) we settled down for the show. To help the evening go with a swing, the staff had generously plied us with a hot fruit and rum punch throughout dinner. This was continued throughout the show as the large tea kettle did the rounds as we (tried) to perch on our camp stools!

The show was a magical event, as the locals put on a display of both male and female dancing and local song. What made it more appealing was the fact that these were not professionals, but local rural people and they were embarrased by the applause and photographic interest show in them.

Of course the lads were not going to be left out and they joined in enthusiastically - aided by the 'tea' from the never emptying pot! Then it was our turn to join in the fun as the crew pulled us up to mix with them and the local people. It turned out to be tremendous fun and again another lasting memory - especially the 'Hokey Kokey', which made the locals shriek with laughter.

The evening was rounded off with some singing by the lads, lead by Shiva, who had a great voice, accompanied by Ram on the drum. Of course we had to reply, so we sang a Christmas carol!

We retired to bed, much the worse for the now dreaded 'black tea', and was grateful for the knowledge that the following days trek was only a half day!

Nepal Day 6

After a comfortable night at Bhumdi we were awoken with a hot cup of tea by the boys, very welcome when it was quite cold. Shortly afterwards they returned with two bowls and some hot water for our morning wash. Then it was our turn to do some work, by packing up our trek bags, which were swiftly loaded onto baskets by the sherpas and then taken away.

The breakfast gong was sounded and we then had an open air breakfast of porridge, fried eggs on toast and another hot drink. Whilst we munched away the crew packed up the tents and again these were loaded and sent on their way.

We then had a few minutes before we got our personal kit ready and then we set of about 0830 hrs. Again, this was the pattern for the remaining mornings.

The days trek took us through and over several wooded hills on narrow tracks. Occasionally the trees would part and reveal the snow covered mountain range in the distance. These were part of the Annapurna Range and were peaks such as the Fish Tail (6993m) and Annapurna South (7219m). Luckily the weather was clear and fresh and the mountains were clearly visible.

We continued on our trek and stopped for lunch on a grassy clearing above a valley. Again Laxmi our cook produced another great meal.

We then descended into the next valley and began a climb up the next mountain on a forest road. By now the clouds had rolled in and the views had disappeared. We continued on this road for another hour and half before reaching our next camp site at Panchase Bhanjyang - we were now at 2100 m.

The cloud and mist were making the temperature plummit, so everyone was being quick with their wash and rushing for the comparative warmth of the mess tent. The camp was situated on a mountain saddle and as such had views both East and West. Deepen, our guide, promised we would have a good sunrise the following morning, when the cloud lifted.

Again we had a magnificent meal, this time soup, home made pizza and veg spring rolls. Don't ask me how Laxmi managed to produce such a meal in the basic cooking conditions, but everyone agreed it was probably the best pizza we had ever eaten!

The temperature fell further that night and there was heavy dew. As much as this made sleeping uncomfortable, it was a hidden blessing, as unknown to us it meant the clouds were gone and the mountains were revealing themselves.
This was to prove magical when were were awoken at dawn the following morning!!!

Nepal Day 5

After an unfortunate disturbed night visiting the bathroom, my birthday didn't start too well! However, after some rehydration salts and plenty of fluid I was ready to join the group for the start of our trek.

We took the bus for about 5 minutes, before meeting up with some of our Sherpa guides. We kitted up and started our walk.

The first part took us through some lovely woods and then started to climb steadily up to a stupa, which over looks the town. This took us about 2 and half hours. The views of the Annapurna mountain range beyond the town was amazing and the sign of much more to come.

The walk continued in an manner that was to be the pattern for the days to come. We walked until around 1230 hrs, where we would meet up with the sherpa and kitchen crew who had set up a wonderful lunch stop.

We would have a cold drink, followed by a wonderful hot lunch and tea. After an hours stop for lunch we would continue walking until we arrived mid to late afternoon at our camp. This was set up and ready for us with our trek bags laid outside. These had been caried ahead by the sherpas, along with tables, stools, kitchen cooking equipment and all manner of other stuff.

It was amazing to watch the men and young lads come walking passed us wearing only flip-flops, with a big smile on their face as they watched us struggle up the steep ascents!

Our first camp site was close to a small village and had some basic facilities, well, a drop toilet!

We got our kit bags unloaded and were given a bowl of hot water for a wash before being called for afternoon tea and biscuits. After that the ladies had a chance for some local shopping with the ladies of the village.

Around 1830 hrs the dinner gong was sounded and we went to the mess tent. Here we were treated to a truely excellent meal, produced in conditions that we would struggle to cook an egg in! We had soup to start and then local Nepalise food. Finally I was treated to a home cooked and decorated birthday cake with candles! It was a magnificent gesture, especially given where we were and I was truely touched. Nothing was too much trouble and the boys looked after us like kings and queens. If fact there were two staff to each one of us - therefore making 32!

We settled in in for a comfortable night in our tents at 1600 metres, dreaming of the mountains and rubbing tired limbs!

Nepal Day 4

The journey to Pokhara commenced with a trip on a nearby cable car up to the top of a mountain to another local and very active temple. We waited in line for an hour for the ride up, along with hundreds of locals and their chickens and goats, being taken up for sacrifice.

The ride up took about 10 minutes with breath taking views and an incredible incline and arrived at a small village, there only to serve the pilgrims and worshippers.

The temple was a hive of activity. With smoke, bell ringing, chanting and a large number of people waiting their turn to pray and honour Shiva to whom the temple was dedicated.

After an hours stop we braved the return journey by cable car and then continued our journey to Pokhara.This took most of the remaining part of the day.

Upon arrival at the Trek 'O' Tell, we received a briefing and our treking kit bag, sleeping bag and liner and then hit the town for some last minute shopping.

Of course we got some 'essentials', before catching some pizza for dinner and getting some rest prior to starting our trek.

Nepal Day 3

Today we took an hour and a half drive to Gorkha, the ancestral home of the Shah kings. This town is famous in history as the home of the original, khurkri-wielding, Gurkha soldiers. They were composed largely of Thakuri, Magar and Gurung men which fought the British in 1769 an again in the 1814-16 Anglo-Nepal war. So impressed by their fighting skills and bravery were the British that they started recruiting Gurkhas into the army, but it wasn't until 1886 that the British formalised this.

As luck would have it we arrived just a company of new recruits were under going some rifle drill and marching practice to the beat of a drum. Needless to say they were very smart and all in time. They were still there upon our return some four hours later! We set off for a hike up to the Shah Palace, Upallo Durbar, which dominates the town. The hike is an ascent of approximately 300 metres (1000ft) up via dirt tracks and stone steps, about two kilometres and a more direct descend via a steep stone stairway.

The walk up was very pleasant and took us past local houses, shops and fields. As we climbed we began to get far reaching views across the whole town and out to the surrounding hills. It was very hot in the sun, but cool and easy going within the tree line. The climb up took us about a hour or so, as we were all taking an easy, slow pace to allow us to adjust to the 5000 ft altitude and heat.

Upon arrival at the top, as this is a sacred Hindu temple, dedicated to Kali, we have to remove all leather goods, shoes, belts wallets etc, before entry is permitted. This temple carries out many sacrifices to honour Kali, mainly goats and cockrells. During the period known as Dasain, hundreds of buffaloes, goats and chickens are sacrificed which makes the compound of the temple run red with their blood. Thankfully today we only saw the bloodied remains of several unfortunate goats being carried down to teams of skilled butchers who remove the fur and skin, by boiling in water, before they burn off the remaining hair and expertly butcher the meat.

At the top the temple is a hive of activity with people coming in large numbers to worship. The building is highly decorated with wood carvings and the building has been carefully restored to its former glory. From its walls there are magnificent views of the snow topped mountains of Baudha, Himal Chuli and Manaslu - part of the Himalaya range.

We had a picnic lunch outside the walls and took in the mountain views again, before we descended down the steep steps back to Gorkha. In town we came across a little wooden 'off-licence', where I managed to purchased a couple of small bottles of the local Gurkha Rum. As I write this back at our hotel after a sleepy journey back, the rum is going down a treat, although making typing somewhat slower!

Tomorrow we move on, heading towards Pokhara and the start of our trek which commences the following day - my birthday!

Nepal Day 2

Today we left the hectic and polluted streets of Kathmandu and headed out on one of only a few 'highways'. At first we climbed until we reached a 'pass' over the valley. Here there were armed police as this is a major entrance point into the capital from the plains below. This was demonstrated by the number of commercial trucks struggling up from the valley below.

The road twisted and turned and deep groves were worn into the tarmac by the constant traffic of fully ladened trucks of huge weights, but only on the upward side of the road. We stopped at a view point before we lost too much height to take in a wonderful view of a couple of snow topped peaks in the distance. Parked at the side of the road was a school bus with all the kids hanging out the window saying "hello"! Needless to say they loved the attention of everyone taking their picture!

We continued to drop down towards the valley floor. As we did the scenes got more and more rural in nature. This is farming country and a major rice and crop growing area. There were numerous women carrying huge loads of produce in woven baskets on their backs, but supported via a strap around their foreheads. They certainly work hard for a living and it puts carrying your shopping back from the supermarket into perspective!

We dropped off three of the group who were doing the white water rafting on the river Trisuli. This was a 35 KM paddle with the current down some rapids up to grade 3. When we met up later they all seemed to thoroughly enjoy the experience! We went on ahead to overnight stop at Khairenitar, at the Riverside Spring Resort. This is situated next the river and has small bungalows set in lovely gardens. It was a real treat after the hectic pace of the capital. It was also very hot as we had dropped several thousand feet and the temperature went up a few degrees with each thousand feet we dropped.

We had a nice lunch on the lawn terrace in the sun and watched the numerous colourful butterflys floating past. We also got to see several different types of bird, which I haven't seen before. All in all a nice relaxing start to our second day.

In the late afternoon we went to visit the local village of Thauwatha. We had to cross the river by a long suspension bridge, before we arrived at the village proper. Here it was like a step back in time. Houses with crops drying from the balconies and numerous animals in the yard. Buffaloes, goats, chickens, ducks and cattle all had their alloted space within a swept earthen yard. Out in the fields men and women worked the soil. There was a buffalo team plowing a field and another farmer stacking his rice harvest into a neat conical stack. Of course their were many children running about and we met the wife, sister and daughter of our guide, which was really great. We also saw a women preparing some corn with a hand stone grinder. This looked very hard work and something which I suspect hasn't changed in centuries.

The sun disappeared behind the mountains and by 5 pm it was getting dark. The only good thing was that the temperature didn't plummet like it did in Kathmandu the previous night. Hopefully Clare won't be sleeping in her night treking attire tonight as she was the previous nights!!!
It is now almost dinner time and my chilled beer is going down a treat, a great day 2, I'm sure tomorrow will be just as good if not better.

Nepal Day 1

Today was our first full day (Monday) after arriving yesterday following our overnight flight with Jet Airways.



We took a walking tour of the temples and markets in the centre of Kathmandu. The streets were much as explected, narrow, very busy, with a mass of people going about their business. You had be very mindful of the mopeds and motorcycles speeding up behind you sounding their horns!



The street shops were selling all manner of goods, including fish and freshly butchered meat of goat, buffalo and chicken. We came across a fruit and spice market with a wonderful display of great looking produce and aromas.



There are apparently many hundreds of temples of varying sizes in Kathmandu. We went into several, mainly Hindu, including one where the living Goddess was present - sorry no photos allowed! Along with the temples came the obligatory Sadhu's in their brightly coloured dress and painted faces.



After an excellent lunch taken on a roof top restuarant we went to an area where the people burn their dead relatives on funeral pyres beside a river. Needless to say it was busy with three underway and several more planned.



Last stop was to vist the most sacred Buddhist temple of Boudha. This is the famous image you see on all the travel brochues with the all seeing eye of the Buddha. There were many Tibetan pilgrimes and refugees who live in the city and come every day to pray and walk around the temple, three times, each day.



A great first day, tomorrow we leave Kathmandu to go to Kurintar and Gorkha, homes of the famous Gurkha soldiers.

Nepal Panorama

The next adventure is only a few weeks away now - Nepal. We are traveling with our trusted side kick, George and one of his friends Pat. The trip takes in Kathmandu, Gorkha - home of the famous Gurkha's, a 4 day trek in the Annapurna region, Pokhara and finally Chitwan National Park. Clare and I are really looking forward to it as it should be very varied and stunningly beautiful.



In preparation Clare and I took in a small exhibition of Gurkha life and culture at our local museum. We have a large Gurkha community in Maidstone due to the local military base in the town. They have formed their own community group and this puts on displays and organises school visits to educate and inform the local children.




The exhibition was small, but very interesting. It had information about how the Gurkha's became associated with the British, out of mutual respect for the bravery of their soldiers.



It highlighted the number of Victoria Crosses (13) awarded to Gurkha soldiers and how the tradition of service to the British crown continues today.







It also explained about local ethnic groups and local culture and dress, with some excellent pictures as illustration.







The link to Maidstone was further cemented earlier this year when a bronze statue was unveiled outside the town's museum. It shows a modern Gurkha soldier wearing the famous felt hat.






This was an excellent introduction for our trip. I know from personal experience that the people are friendly, courteous and proud and I look forward to all the interactions to come!