Nepal Day 3

Today we took an hour and a half drive to Gorkha, the ancestral home of the Shah kings. This town is famous in history as the home of the original, khurkri-wielding, Gurkha soldiers. They were composed largely of Thakuri, Magar and Gurung men which fought the British in 1769 an again in the 1814-16 Anglo-Nepal war. So impressed by their fighting skills and bravery were the British that they started recruiting Gurkhas into the army, but it wasn't until 1886 that the British formalised this.

As luck would have it we arrived just a company of new recruits were under going some rifle drill and marching practice to the beat of a drum. Needless to say they were very smart and all in time. They were still there upon our return some four hours later! We set off for a hike up to the Shah Palace, Upallo Durbar, which dominates the town. The hike is an ascent of approximately 300 metres (1000ft) up via dirt tracks and stone steps, about two kilometres and a more direct descend via a steep stone stairway.

The walk up was very pleasant and took us past local houses, shops and fields. As we climbed we began to get far reaching views across the whole town and out to the surrounding hills. It was very hot in the sun, but cool and easy going within the tree line. The climb up took us about a hour or so, as we were all taking an easy, slow pace to allow us to adjust to the 5000 ft altitude and heat.

Upon arrival at the top, as this is a sacred Hindu temple, dedicated to Kali, we have to remove all leather goods, shoes, belts wallets etc, before entry is permitted. This temple carries out many sacrifices to honour Kali, mainly goats and cockrells. During the period known as Dasain, hundreds of buffaloes, goats and chickens are sacrificed which makes the compound of the temple run red with their blood. Thankfully today we only saw the bloodied remains of several unfortunate goats being carried down to teams of skilled butchers who remove the fur and skin, by boiling in water, before they burn off the remaining hair and expertly butcher the meat.

At the top the temple is a hive of activity with people coming in large numbers to worship. The building is highly decorated with wood carvings and the building has been carefully restored to its former glory. From its walls there are magnificent views of the snow topped mountains of Baudha, Himal Chuli and Manaslu - part of the Himalaya range.

We had a picnic lunch outside the walls and took in the mountain views again, before we descended down the steep steps back to Gorkha. In town we came across a little wooden 'off-licence', where I managed to purchased a couple of small bottles of the local Gurkha Rum. As I write this back at our hotel after a sleepy journey back, the rum is going down a treat, although making typing somewhat slower!

Tomorrow we move on, heading towards Pokhara and the start of our trek which commences the following day - my birthday!